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On the bus ride leaving Chalten, I was once again presented with some of the most photogenic vistas of the trip, and tried to keep myself from taking bus pictures, but I could not. After a 7 hour layover in Calafate, the next bus was four hours to Rio Gallegos. From there, the bus to Rio Grande takes 10 hours, about four of them spent waiting to cross into Chile, then back into Argentina. Exit Argentina, one hour. Enter Chile, one hour. Exit Chile, one hour. Enter Argentina, one hour.
Other than all the waiting, this bus was remarkable in that I sat next to a man who surprised me in a couple of ways.
Now, my Spanish is passable, but I would hardly call it fluent, or even good. But this man, who was from Santiago, Chile, upon speaking to me for 10 minutes, most of it in a whisper that I had to lean in to hear, asked me if I was from Chile as well. I looked at him to see if he was joking, but he was completely serious.
At each station entering or exiting a country, although we would walk off the bus separately, as I was waiting in line, he would come fine me and stand next to me, without saying a word.
At the time, I thought it was strange, but was also engrossed in Running with Scissors, which, by the way, has far more gay sex than I was anticipating. When we stopped in a cafe by the ocean to cross into Tierra del Fuego on a boat, he followed me into the cafe, and ordered what I ordered, then sat next to me without a word and ate it. I am not sure if he was mentally retarded, specifically, but I suspect that he was somewhat slow. When I was 50 pages from the end.